purelyfrance

As one’s thoughts turn to August………

August is an iconic month in France.  Warm sunny summer days…….lazy lounging at seaside resorts…….outdoor al fresco dining…….bottles of rosé chilling in ice buckets……celeb spotting in Cannes or St Tropez……….as for commerce and industry - pouff - that can all wait until September!

One may as well go on holiday, because everyone else is. I kid you not. Look at this list of ‘absentees’.

Our boulangerie - closed for the first three weeks of August - catastrophe!

Phoned for a rendezvous for a haircut. Karine is en vacances the first, third and fourth weeks of August, can you make it the second week.

A letter arrived yesterday from our Accountant - le bureau est fermé between 10 and 21 August.

An email arived today from a real estate agent - we are closed 01 to 15 August.

And if you still have any doubts about August being a ‘lost’ month then read this.

During June, we applied to have our bank loan modified to incorporate more advantageous interest rates. We said it would be good if it could become effective from July. That would be very difficult we were told, I have to prepare the dossier, make application for approval, and then I will be en vacances for all of August, so it will be September or October before we can finalise the adjustment!!

 Is it any wonder that President Sarkosy keeps talking about lifting productivity levels!

 Of course it is not only the French who kick back during August. The main motorway south, the A6, is inundated with cars, caravans, and motorhomes bearing Dutch, Belgian and German license plates.

The French joke about the best time to invade the Netherlands is the middle weekend in August between 12 noon and 4 p.m.  Half the population have finished their holidays and have not yet returned home, while the other half have commenced their holiday and have departed already!!

Hhmm, I wonder who is guarding those great masters of art in the Rijksmuseum; or all those diamonds in the jewellers’ windows; or even the Heineken factory for that matter.

Oh dear, I have just read that Sarko and the delectable Carla are going on 3 weeks holiday. I guess ‘ productivity’ can also wait until September………….

Time to roll the sleeves up!

After your recent French property purchase, hopefully you have had a champagne celebration (when in Rome……..)   The next step means putting aside momentarily the romance of your adventure and focus on any renovations your property may require.  They normally do!!

For each of our three purchases, we have always taken the approach of buying a property that was currently being lived in.  This lowers the risk of unpleasant surprises; usually means water, sewerage, electricity are at least in working order; and unless you plan major changes any structural reconstruction is of a ‘minor’ nature.

If you can live ‘on site’ when the renovations are being carried out, so much the better. The sub-contractors then know if they are scheduled for work ‘chez vous’ you are going to be there expecting them. It also means you can react immediately to any questions that arise (there will be many!) and be involved if some minor changes come along during the work. This also usually happens.

Even seemingly small tasks such as the placement of a power point can be managed straight away, having them placed exactly where you want them.  Consider this conversation Anne had with Franck, our electrician:

F. Where in the kitchen do you want your spots?

A. I don’t want spots.  (Anne thinks spot lights have a place in a home, but not in her kitchen)

F. How many spots do you want?

A. I don’t want spots.

F. Do you want two spots or three spots?

A. (emphatically) I-do-not-want-spots - merci.

F. It is summer now and it is light, in the winter you wont be able to see to cook.

A. (resignedly) Three spots s’il vous plait, right here above the window, right in the centre.

For renovations involving plumbing, electricity, knocking out walls etc we recommend you employ an architect.  Yes it will add to your costs, around 10%, but there are many advantages, particularly as he/she acts as a Project Manager.

1. They will select the sub-contractors. We would not have had a clue as to who was good bad or indifferent.  An architect has a professional reputation to protect so he will select subbies who are going to do quality work. They will lay out the work spec and request the devis. (quotes)

2. They will co-ordinate the sequence of the subbies work and therefore save you time. There is nothing more frustrating than waiting two weeks just for a plumber to come to disconnect a pipe before other work can proceed.

3. Often they will make suggestions which will save you money. And they can be quite inventive. Our lady architect in Provence completely transformed our kitchen in a layout we would never have thought of.  Here in Burgundy, our architect located an exterior drain by using a ‘diviner’ stick. I kid you not!!

4. The work completed under their jurisdiction is guaranteed, so you have some degree of security that the work will be completed to your satisfaction. And actually completed!!

As you receive each ‘devi’ read through them carefully, with a French dictionary beside you if neccessary.  We made a point of always asking questions - not that we expected to have the price reduced but we thought it was good practice to make everyone aware we were keeping an eye on the ‘devis’.

We found that  the costs were generally within or confined to the prices quoted. The biggest challenge is ‘time’ and this becomes very important if you are creating a Bed and Breakfast or self-catering holiday accommodation.

Your season for guests starts around Easter each year. So you want all your work done by then. However, the prime selling/booking season starts straight after Christmas, so ideally you want all your renovation work completed by the end of November. You need at least a months lead time as you need to take photos, activate your website and/or  arrange to be listed in some of the internet based directories. So if you estimate you have 3 months of renovation work in front of you, allow 6 months and you will be close. Don’t forget, as we did (twice - slow learners!!) that no work will be carried out in August, so you need to plan for that being a ‘lost’ month.

After that, all you need is the 3 P’s mantra - patience, persistence and perserverance.

Bon Courage!!

A Bientot, Bruce.

Here in Burgundy the grape harvest is once again in full swing.

Given that vines have hung around since the Romans invited themselves into Burgundy in the 1st and 2nd centuries, this year would be about the 2000th harvest!!  However, in spite of the Romans’ best efforts, most credit for establishing the quality and fame of Burgundian wines is generally given to the monks of Citeaux circa 12 c.  Today it is claimed Burgundy wines are the best in the world. (I have two brothers who grow grapes in Marlborough, New Zealand who may contest that claim!)

Harvest time sees a rapid change in the landscape. Only the other Sunday we were cycling through the vineyards of Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet.  There was a clear blue sky hosting golden sunshine, the vines heavily laden with their grapes, and practically no one to be seen other than the odd stray dog. We absorbed ourselves in the tranquil and peaceful environment.

But when the balloon goes up to commence the harvest, it is all change and it is impossible not to know it. Over the previous week or so, literally thousands of workers have made their way to Burgundy in anticipation of the harvest. While some vines are harvested mechanically most of the premier and grand cru grapes are hand picked. Then an assortment of tractors and machinery start to ramble past your home any time after 0600 each morning. Buses, vans, people movers, motor homes congregate all around the region to pick up the ‘les vendangeurs’ and transport them to the vineyards.

The vineyards themselves look like they have come under attack. People everywhere, crates and containers galore to carry the grapes, tractors pulling large storage vessels used to take the grapes off to be pressed. There is activity everywhere and you sense the urgency of having the vines stripped in the shortest possible time. Les Vendangeurs put in long hours and at days end many a weary body is mollified by the finished product!

The last day of harvest is time to ‘make merry’. Mock fights errupt with unused grapes acting as the ammunition, pickers and tractors are decorated with vines, and a parade around the village celebrates the last bunch of grapes have been picked. Of course the celebrations go on well into the night, and well deserved they are too! 

Which leads me to this ‘cute’ wine quotation:

“I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food.” - Anonymous

A Bientot, Bruce.

Keeping our Guests happy…….

Happy guests, or at least satisfied guests are of course paramount for any successful hospitality business.  I thought it might be of interest to share some of the things we do which seem to receive a near universal ‘thumbs up’ from our self-catering guests.  Bear in mind the mix of our guests over any season are approximately 50% British, 20% Australia/New Zealand, 15% USA/Canada, 10% Other European, and 5% Rest of world.

1. The Bread run.  We do not have a boulangerie within walking distance, so we do a ‘bread run’ for our guests each morning. We place a bread sac in each apartment along with a small order form for a range of pastries and bread. The guests make out an order, leave the sac on our front door knob during the evening and we leave it on their door knob complete with their order around 0800 each morning.  It makes for a very relaxed start to the day for the guests.

 2. Internet/Wireless.  We are fortunate to be able to access ADSL (broadband) lines in our small village so we provide a computer in our guest common room which stays online all the time.  We also have a wifi (wireless) hotspot in our private office which guests can access sitting in our courtyard.  There are very few guests who do not use this facility. Those who have been travelling around make a bee line for it almost immediately.

3. We speak english.  Not so much for the experienced British perhaps, but for most others you hear a sigh of relief when you first greet them.

4. Supplies.  We provide a standard ’starter’ pack of tea, coffee, sugar, milk and orange juice. But we also try to anticipate the ‘little’ items which travellers wouldn’t normally carry with them and can be an irritant for them to buy. So the kitchen is stocked with rubbish sacs, sponges, brillo pads, detergent, Tea towels, olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Washing powder for the washing machines, and pegs!  In the bathroom there is proper soap, (big cakes for the shower, small cakes for the hand basin) earbuds, tissues and make-up removal pads.

5. Washing machines.  There is one in each apartment and they are used extensively - particularly with this years weather!!  Again, those who have travelled from afar and/or have been travelling around are delighted. We always make the point the machines are not gender specific!

6. Welcome Notes. While these contain much practical information about the accommodation, various housekeeping matters, directions and the like, the most valued informaton are personal recommendations.  These cover restaurants, gems for wine tastings, shopping, things to see and do, attractons for children, and suggested routes for cycling/walking/jogging. They are all contained in a black folder and most guests take it out in the car with them. One lot all the way back to the UK!

7. Bicycles.  Burgundy is ready made for cycling, particularly around our area as it is relatively flat terrain. But I think ‘cycling in France’ is seen as another must-do for many visitors.  Our bicycles, which we offer without charge, are constantly in use and very often by guests who admit it is over 20 or 30 years since they have been on a bicycle. The lure of vineyards, villages and routes along the canal are just too strong to resist.

8. Wine in la Cave. For our B n B guests, we would offer them the opportunity to lay a bottle of wine in our Cave. It would be left for either a future visit or for family or friends. At the very least it made for good social talk back home! We would write up a little wine board, then take a digital photo for the record and for sending on to whoever the guests pleased.

9. Being flexible.  An over used maxim of marketing is to ‘meet the needs’ of your customer.  It is nonetheless a good business principle to live by.  And very often it is just little things.  Want to wash your car? No problem, there’s the hose, and I will fetch you a bucket and rag.  Careful about drinking and driving?  We’ll drop you off at the restuarant and you can get a taxi home.  Would you like a night out without the children? We will be happy to baby sit for you.  Need to see a Doctor? We will call our own GP, he can usually see you today or tomorrow.  Being alert to your guests requirements will greatly enhance their stay which in turn will often result in future referrals.

There are no doubt many other services that are equally well received by guests, but those are some of the ‘majors’ that have worked for us.

A Bientot, Bruce.

The Legal Process

Once you have an agreed price for the property you are going to buy, a meeting is arranged at a Notaire to sign the Compromis (draft sale) document.  Apart from yourselves, in attendence will be the sellers and also the Real Estate agent.

We think the Notaire system is very good and provides you with a great deal of confidence.  Their prime responsibility is to ensure that the transaction is completed in accordance with existing French law, and that the correct amount of taxes are applied. (and collected!) So essentially they are independant, not acting for you or the seller, but for the French government.  If you are a non-French speaker the Notaire must arrange for a translator to be present.

You are quite entitled to appoint your own Avocat to represent you but we have never felt a need to do so.  The only exception was when we bought our first property and we we couldn’t be in France when the final documents were signed. We provided a Power of Attorney to an Avocate who signed for us. To this day we have never met her - she was away on holiday when we called by her office to collect the keys!!

I should mention here that this article is a very broad brush of our experiences and a guide only. You should of course seek expert professional advice for any property transaction you undertake. Particularly as the laws appear to be modified quite frequently. You can find excellent information at www.notaires.fr including an english version!

The Compromis is wordy (naturally!) but many of the subject headings are the same as what you would see in your own country. One very important set of clauses are the Conditions Suspensive. Here you must insert any ’subject to’ conditions you wish to apply, such as raising a loan, or selling an existing property. Once you have signed the Compromis, and if all the Conditions Suspensive have been fulfilled then the sale must proceed. Otherwise you forfeit your deposit. (usually 10%)

Once the Compromis has been signed there is usually a two or three month gap until you sign the final sale document, the Acte de Vente. During this time the Notaire undertakes the neccessary searches and checks. The seller must also present a report detailing the whereabouts of any lead, termites and asbestos on the property. They are not compelled to remove these, merely make you aware of where they exist. The Notaire also advises the local Mairie of the transaction as usually the town/village/commune has the right to purchase the property at the agreed price!!

A few days prior to signing the Acte de Vente you will need to have paid the balance of the purchase price into the Notaire”s bank account. After you have completed signing the Acte de Vente (this can take two or three hours) the Notaire will present you with the keys to your new home and you become the proud new owners from that time.

We were intrigued with the imprecise possession date applied to our existing property. We took ownership of the keys on the 20th of December, two months later in February the previous owners were still removing various items from the property!!  They are a lovely family so we didn’t at all mind, were just amused by it.

A Bientôt, Bruce.

As well as being a fashion statement on and off for decades, it is fair to say the hugely distinguishable beret is always associated with France and being ‘French’.

Why is it so?  The number of berets I have sighted in France in 7 years you could count on one hand. That discounts the beret my brother brings when he comes to stay. He has the misguided belief it lifts the quality of his petanque playing. Admittedly, most of my time has been spent swanning around Provence, the French Riviera and Burgundy, so perhaps I need to head (pardon that pathetic pun) for the Basque region.

 I did buy a beret once, in a specialty hat shop in Cahors, or perhaps it was Sarlat. My memory of the whole transaction is somewhat hazy as I had instantly fallen in love with the female sales assistant.  It could have been the broad warm smile, the big round hazel coloured eyes, the semi-Mediterranean bronzed skin, the subtle hint of her décolletée, or her husky heavily accented english that turned me to jelly. Or it may have been all five!!  I do recall that it was the longest time ever I have spent in a hat shop. Sigh…………………!!

The beret has in reality been a comparative newcomer in French history terms. It did indeed originate in the Pyrenees and up until the 1850’s was rarely seen in the rest of the country. That all changed with Napoleon the Third. He conscripted large numbers of young men from the Pyrenees and eventually the beret became part of the national dress. In recent years the popularity of the beret has declined, there are now around 850,000 berets produced each year with half of those for the military.

In the Basque country they have a saying - “two cabbage leaves stuffed inside your beret will give you protection from the sun”. Perhaps that is where the expression ‘cabbage head’ comes from - je ne sais pas!

A Bientot, Bruce.